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KUKSAY EXPEDITION
(24-day variant Kashgar - Kashgar, ascents of climbed and unclimbed mountains)

The Kuksay Glacier is located in the Western Kun-Lun on the eastern side of the Muztagh-Ata Massif and only a few small climbing teams were there before our South African Kuksay - 2001 expedition. The region is very interesting for climbers because a lot of amazing virgin mountains surround the glacier and the most part of them are very difficult for climbing - they have very steep snow and ice slopes with icefalls, steep ridges and vertical rock walls.

More than ten beautiful peaks of 4800-5600 m are located on the eastern side of the Kuksay Glacier. Amazing Peak 6355 m and Peak 5875 m are on the southern side. Peaks 6849-6858 m, Koskulak Peak (7028 m), Kalaxong Peak (7277 m), Muztagh-Ata (7546 m) and Kuksay Peak (7184 m) surround the western side. Peak 6088 m, Peak 5964 m, Tuyuk Peak (6161 m) and several peaks of 5200-5600 m are on the northern side of the glacier. All these peaks except Muztagh-Ata, Kuksay and Tuyuk were unclimbed and only two climbing routes were done there before our expedition in 2001 - a small team of Dan Mazur (USA) climbed Tuyuk Peak and Muztagh-Ata from the side of the Kuksay Glacier.

In 2001 our South African expedition (expedition leader Mrs. Ulrike Kiefer) did three first ascents of Kala Peak (5643 m), Peak 5634 m, Peak 5607 m and the second ascent of Tuyuk Peak. In 2007 our British expedition (expedition leader Mr. John Allen) did four first ascents of unclimbed peaks 4976 m, 5582 m, 5315 m and 5485 m, but a lot of peaks are still unclimbed there.


Period of the programme: June - September

Variant of the programme:
day 1 - arrival in Kashgar; transfer airport - hotel; hotel accommodation
day 2 - drive to Karakul Lake and then to Subashi / Kongtoyagz Village (~3659 m), 4-5 hours
day 3/4 - trek up with pack-camels along the Kengxuwar and Torbulung rivers to the tongue of the Kuksay Glacier (~4000 m)
day 5 - trek up with donkeys and local porters to the place of the Kuksay Base Camp (~4600 m)
day 6/19 - acclimatization and ascents of the climbed and unclimbed peaks (~5000-6000 m) in the Kuksay Glacier area, 14 days
day 20 - trek down with donkeys and local porters to the tongue of the Kuksay Glacier
day 21/22 - trek down with pack-camels to Subashi / Kongtoyagz Village
day 23 - drive to Kashgar; hotel accommodation
day 24 - transfer hotel - airport; departure from Kashgar

Programme prices: see our trips and expeditions summary

Services and expenses included in the programme price:
  • All necessary formalities: Chinese visa invitations, all necessary fees and charges for Xinjiang including a peak registration fee, an administrative fee, highway and conservation charges, etc
  • Transfers airport - hotel in Kashgar: 2 transfers
  • Bus / jeep for the transportation Kashgar - Subashi / Kongtoyagz Village and back
  • Pack-camels for the luggage transportation Subashi / Kongtoyagz Village - the tongue of the Kuksay Glacier and back
  • Donkeys and local porters for the luggage transportation the tongue of the Kuksay Glacier - Kuksay Base Camp and back
  • Hotel accommodation (double rooms) in Kashgar for 2 nights
  • Base camp equipment: a big mess tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set
  • Meals in Kashgar: 2 breakfasts
  • Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) during the trek and in the Kuksay Base Camp for 21 days
  • Chinese cook for cooking during the trek and in the Kuksay Base Camp
  • Chinese liaison officer-interpreter
  • Expedition manager of Ersh Travels (optionally)
  • Organizing and overhead expenses of Ersh Travels
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