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FOUR SUCCESSFUL CLIMBS OF SOUTH AFRICAN CLIMBERS

Kala Peak, 5643 m from the West
Kala Peak, 5643 m from the West

Peak 5634 m from the West
Peak 5634 m from the West

Tuyuk Peak, 6161 m from the South
Tuyuk Peak, 6161 m from the South

Peak 5607 m from the West
Peak 5607 m from the West
    In July-August 2001 we carried out a big expedition for South African climbers and trekkers in the area of the Kuksay Glacier on the eastern side of the Muztagh-Ata Massif. This expedition was organized by Mrs. Ulrike Kiefer (the Mountain Club of South Africa) and Mr. Andrey Ershov (Ersh Travels) and its goal was an investigation of a very new mountain region and climbing several unclimbed summits of that area.

    The Kuksay Glacier is located in the Western Kun-Lun and only a few small climbing teams were there before us. A lot of unclimbed mountains surround the Kuksay Glacier and only two routes were climbed there.

    We found a good enough approach to the place of Base Camp, carefully investigated surrounding mountains, possible climbing routes, got a lot of photos and did three first ascents of the unclimbed tops about 5600 m and the second ascent of more higher Tuyuk Peak:

    1. Kala Peak, 5643 m - the first ascent was done on 02.08.2001 by Andrew Kendall, Janna Ball, Roland Magg, Andrey Ershov, Roy Kendall and Greig Stewart from the West.

    2. Peak 5634 m - the first ascent was done on 04.08.2001 by Pawel Wuzyk, Martin Bruning and Ian Bailey from the South-West.

    3. Tuyuk Peak, 6161 m - the second ascent was done on 10.08.2001 by Andrey Ershov, Pawel Wuzyk, Roy Kendall, Janna Ball and Ian Bailey from the South-West.

    4. Peak 5607 m - the first ascent was done on 11.08.2001 by Andrew Kendall and Martin Bruning from the West.

    We are sure that the region is very interesting for climbers, especially, for very experienced climbers because the most part of the climbing routes are very difficult - very steep snow and ice slopes with icefalls, steep ridges and vertical rock walls.

    Andrey Ershov
    November 14, 2001

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