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DUTCH-RUSSIAN SHISHA PANGMA - 2002 EXPEDITION

Shisha Pangma - more details

Marina Ershova Werner de Jong
Oleg Nasedkin Vladimir Belous Viktor Bobok Vladimir Oleynik Dmitry Moskalev Yury Soyfer

Sergey Bogomolov Jaco Liefers Peter van de Haar Marc Streefkerk Paul van den Dungen Trudy van den Dungen

EXPEDITION PROGRAMME:
20.04.
- arrival in Kathmandu
21.04. - Kathmandu
22/27.04. - Kathmandu - Zangmu (2300 m) - Nyalam (3750 m) - Shisha Pangma Base Camp (5000 m)
28.04. - BC
29/30.04. - BC - Advanced Base Camp (5600 m)
01/03.05. - ABC, rest and acclimatization
04/05.05. - ABC - Camp 1 (6300 m) - ABC
06/07.05. - ABC, rest
08/10.05. - ABC - Camp 2 (6900 m) - ABC
11/13.05. - ABC, rest
14/17.05. - ABC - Camp 3 (7400 m) - ABC
18/20.05. - ABC, rest
21/25.05. - ABC - summit of Shisha Pangma (8012 m) - ABC
26/27.05. - ABC, reserve days
28.05. - ABC - BC - Nyalam
29.05. - Nyalam - Kathmandu
30.05. - Kathmandu
31.05. - departure from Kathmandu


Marina Ershova - Russian team leader
- born in 1961, "snow leopard", Mountaineering Club "Gornyak", St. Petersburg
- high-altitude climbs including:
Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m (1989, 1990)
Lenin Peak, 7134 m (1991, 1992, 1993)
Communism Peak, 7495 m (1989, 1991)
Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m (1992)
Pobeda Peak, 7439 m (1992)
Cho Oyu, 8201 m (2000)

Werner de Jong - Dutch team leader
- born in 1956, Dutch Royal Mountaineering Association
- climbing experience including:
Mont Blanc, 4810 m (4 times)
Elbrus, 5642 m (1994)
Kilimanjaro, 5895 m (1995)
Muztagh-Ata, 7546 m (1998)
Cotopaxi (2001, till 5700 m)

Oleg Nasedkin
- born in 1958, Zelenograd Sports Club of Mountaineering, Zelenograd
- high-altitude climbs including:
Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m (1992, 1995)
Communism Peak, 7495 m (1995)
Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m (1999, two climbs)
Pobeda Peak, 7439 m (2001, till 7000 m)
Makalu, 8463 m (1997, till 7600 m)
Cho Oyu, 8201 m (2000)

Vladimir Belous
- born in 1969, Bratsk
- high-altitude climbs including:
Lenin Peak, 7134 m (1993, 1995)
Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m (2000)
Pobeda Peak, 7439 m (2001, till 7000 m)

Viktor Bobok
- born in 1961, Moscow
- high-altitude climbs including:
Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m (1993)
Lenin Peak, 7134 m (1987)
Kilimanjaro, 5895 m (1998)
McKinley, 6194 m (2001)

Vladimir Oleynik
- born in 1958, Moscow
- high-altitude climbs including:
Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m (1986)
Dhaulagiri, 8167 m (1997, till 6900 m)
Muztagh-Ata, 7546 m (2001)

Dmitry Moskalev
- born in 1962, Mountaineering Club "MAI", Moscow
- high-altitude climbs including:
McKinley, 6194 m (1999)
Lhotse, 8516 m (2000, till 7200 m)
Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m (2001)

Yury Soyfer
- born in 1958, Mountaineering Club "MAI", Moscow
- high-altitude climbs including:
Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m
Lenin Peak, 7134 m
Communism Peak, 7495 m
Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m
McKinley, 6194 m (1999)
Lhotse, 8516 m (2000, till 7200 m)

Sergey Bogomolov
- born in 1951, "snow leopard" 4 times, Saratov
- high-altitude climbs including:
Kangchenjunga, 8586 m (1989, new route)
Cho Oyu, 8201 Л (1991, new route)
Dhaulagiri, 8167 m (1993, new route)
Ama Dablam, 6812 m (1994, new route)
Everest, 8848 m (1995)
Makalu, 8463 m (1996)
Lhotse, 8516 m (1997)
Gasherbrum I, 8068 m (2001)
Gasherbrum II, 8035 m (2001)

Jaco Liefers
- born in 1971, Dutch Royal Mountaineering Association
- climbing experience including:
Mera Peak, 6450 m (1998)
Mont Blanc, 4810 m (1998)
Toubkal, 4300 m (1998)
Parchamo Peak, 6300 m (2000)

Peter van de Haar
- born in 1962, Dutch Royal Mountaineering Association
- climbing experience including:
Kilimanjaro, 5895 m (1996)
Chimborazo (1997, failed attempt)
Huayna Potosi, 6100 m (1997, approached summit to within 50 m)
Lenin Peak (1999, till 6400m)
Aconcagua (2000, till 6800 m)
Mont Blanc, 4810 m (2000)
Mont Blanc de Tacul, 4248 m (2000)

Marc Streefkerk
- born 1970, Dutch Royal Mountaineering Association
- climbing experience including:
Mont Blanc de Tacul, 4248 m (2000, solo climb)
Monch, 4107 m (2000, solo climb)
Kala Patar, 5554 m (2000)
Gokyo Ri, 5357 m (2000)

Paul van den Dungen
- born in 1946, Dutch Royal Mountaineering Association
- climbing experience including:
Aconcagua, 6959 m (1992)
Elbrus, 5642 m (1994)
Kilimanjaro, 5895 m (1995)
Lenin Peak (1997, till 6400 m)
Muztagh-Ata, 7546 m (1998)
Mera Peak, 6450 m (1999)
Island Peak, 6189 m (1999)
Shisha Pangma (2000, till 7400 m)
Cotopaxi (2001, till 5700 m)
Chimborazo, 6310 m (2001)

Trudy van den Dungen
- born in 1944, Dutch Royal Mountaineering Association
- climbing experience including:
Aconcagua (1992, till 5400 m)
Elbrus, 5642 m (1994)
Kilimanjaro (1995, till 4800)
Lenin Peak (1997, till 4800 m)
Muztagh-Ata (1998, till 5200 m)
Mera Peak (1999, till 5500 m)
Island Peak (1999, till 5000 m)
Shisha Pangma (2000, till 6000 m)

EXPEDITION NEWS:
May 30, Marina Ershova:
All is OK and our expedition was successfully finished. Yesterday last Russian members returned in Kathmandu - Dmitry Moskalev, Yury Soyfer and Viktor Bobok summited Shisha Pangma on May 26. As a result all Russian members reached the top of Shisha Pangma, Sergey Bogomolov - twice! Unfortunately, but very bad weather and high altitude did not allow the Dutch team to reach the summit. A couple of days we will have a rest in Kathmandu and will return in Moscow on June 01.

May 30, Werner de Jong:
The Dutch team had very bad luck with the weather in the beginning. They even got lost twice in the blizzards. The situations were very dangerous.

After acclimatizing in ABC (5.600 meters) they went up to camp 1 (6.300 meters). 3 Days later they went up for camp 1 and 2 (6.800 meters), but did get trapped again in a snowstorm. They were forced to stay 2 days in camp 1 after going to camp 2. Only 3 persons went to camp 2. Werner and Peter find it better to recover in ABC after 48 hours not sleeping and shattering tents.

3 Days later only Werner, Paul, Marc and Jaco went up to try to summit Shisha Pangma. Arriving in camp 2 the next storm started. They got stuck for 5 days in this camp. A lot of snow came down. The second Russian group at the same time got stuck in camp 3. Through walky talkies they worked together between these camps.

The Dutch group did twice an attempt to get to camp 3 (7.400). The storm was to heavy and they were forced to get back to camp 2. Werner did not feel his toes anymore and tried to call back 1 young sherpa who was going up to camp 3 with 2 tents. In the storm he could not hear Werner and went on. He reached camp 3 and the Russian group had to help him, because his fingers were black because of frostbite. Later he was send back to camp 2. Werner did send him down to a doctor of the team of Singapore. This was the third time the Dutch team lost their sherpa.

After 5 days they decided to go down, because the food, gascartridges and energy was running out. The team was forced to bring down by themselves all the equipment from camp 3 and 2. Marc succeeded on his own to reach camp 3 to bring down the 2 tents that the sherpa has left there.

The group reached completely exhausted ABC and there was no time left to do another attempt. Again bad weather was coming.

May 24, Marina Ershova:
This morning Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Oleynik summited Shisha Pangma! Bogomolov did the second ascent of Shisha Pangma during one expedition! Vladimir Oleynik climbed with oxygen. Now they are in Camp 3 and they will come down to ABC tomorrow. Moskalev, Soyfer and Bobok are near Camp 2. Tomorrow they plan to reach Camp 3 and then they will try to summit Shisha Pangma.

May 23, Marina Ershova:
The weather is better today, but for how many days? Today Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Oleynik have reached Camp 3, they are going to do the ascent tomorrow. If all is OK, they will return to ABC the day after tomorrow. Three Russians - Moskalev, Soyfer and Bobok - plan to reach Camp 2 tomorrow. And then they will try to repeat their attempt to climb Shisha Pangma.

May 22, Marina Ershova:
Today all Dutch members came down to ABC. Their Sherpas have brought all their things, but one tent was left in Camp 2. The Dutch team decided to cancel their attempts to climb Shisha Pangma, they will have a rest for two days and with yaks they will go downwards on May 25. We have booked yaks for the Russian members for May 28 because they want to repeat the attempt of the ascent. Vladimir Oleynik and Sergey Bogomolov have already left ABC. Viktor Bobok and Dmitry Moskalev have intention to leave ABC after tomorrow. Today the weather is a little better.

May 21, Marina Ershova:
The weather is very bad now - strong wind, blizzard and cold. Moskalev, Soyfer and Bobok spent four days in Camp 3 and now they are going down to ABC. Vladimir Oleynik came to ABC earlier. The Dutch team is going down too. I don't know if they will have enough power and desire for the next attempt. And will the weather allow that?

May 17, Marina Ershova:
Yesterday on May 16 the first Russian group reached the summit of Shisha Pangma! Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Belous were the first, they summited the most remote top of Shisha Pangma at 10 a.m. Marina Ershova and Oleg Nasedkin reached the summit two hours later. Three hours later we all were at Camp 3 and today we are at ABC. We are very glad, the weather is good and without wind. Tomorrow the second Russian group is going up and then the Dutch team will go up to the summit.

May 12, Marina Ershova:
All is OK and tomorrow on May 13 Bogomolov, Nasedkin, Belous and me will go up to install Camp 3 on 7200 m - 7400 m. Maybe, we will try to summit Shisha Pangma. The second Russian group will go one day later. And the Dutch team plans to leave ABC one-two days later than the second Russian group. Today the Dutch team came back from Camp 2. Marc, Paul and Jaco reached Camp 2 and spent a night there, the two others were not very well and they were in Camp 1 only.

May 10, Marina Ershova:
Today and several next days our Russian team will have a rest in ABC. On May 8 Bogomolov, Nasedkin, Belous and me reached the place of Camp 2 on 6900 m and installed our tent there. Yesterday we came back to ABC. Bobok, Oleynik, Moskalev and Soyfer reached Camp 2 on May 9 and today they have returned to ABC. Vladimir Oleynik decided to spend the second night in Camp 2 for the better acclimatization. The Dutch team is in Camp 1 now and they plan to reach Camp 2 tomorrow. So, all is OK. The other expeditions tried to summit Shisha Pangma but they could not do that. They says that it is a very strong wind and very cold there.

May 07, Andrey Ershov:
Today Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin, Marina Ershova and Vladimir Belous have left ABC and plan to install the second high-altitude camp. Tomorrow they should be on 6900 m - 7000 m, and they will come down to юбя on May 09. The second Russian group - Bobok, Oleynik, Moskalev and Soyfer plan to leave for Camp 2 tomorrow. The Dutch team came down to юбя yesterday and now they will have several rest days.

May 05, Marina Ershova:
Today all Russians are in ABC. And Trudy. The Dutch team has gone to Camp 1. They have a problem with one of their Sherpas - today he has gone to BC and wants to drive to Lhasa. During our approach to ABC his legs were frostbitten and he can not work. The weather is very good and a mass bathing was here. Our state and mood is good.

May 04, Marina Ershova:
Yesterday Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir Belous and me reached 6300 m and installed our tent on the place of Camp 1. Our ascent took 5 - 5.5 hours. It looks nice. Two Dutch Sherpas, who brought a tent and other things for the Dutch climbers, ascended 7 hours. Today after sleeping in Camp 1 we came down to ABC and on the way we met our second group - Bobok, Oleynik, Moskalev and Soyfer who were going to Camp 1. The Dutch group is going to leave for Camp 1 tomorrow.

The weather is fine. The bright sun melted the snow in ABC and all our tents were in water. We have been forced to dry them and to install them on the other place.
ABC on 5600 m

May 02, Marina Ershova:
Today we have transported our climbing tents, gas cartridges and some other things to Intermediate Camp on 5800 m. It is about 2 - 2.5 hours from ABC. Tomorrow Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir Belous and me will go to Camp 1 on 6300 m. The other Russians will go there after tomorrow, the Dutch members plan to start two days later. The weather is very unstable, a strong wind blows and a lot of snow is on the slopes of Shisha Pangma. The other expeditions have pitched Camp 1 and Camp 2 only.

May 01, Werner de Jong:
...we had a hard day in going to ABC. We had to fight trough a terrible snowstorm. Even 4 Sherpas went back to BC and actually came the next day.

We found the camp in the storm and had no dinner before sleeping. The next day we reached ABC. Everybody was exhausted.

Now we have to take a good rest before starting our climbing program. Trudy came in BC and was sick. Paul did vomete after his dinner. I and the others feel ok. Reaching ABC was a big adventure on his own.

May 01, Marina Ershova:
Our Tibetan adventures were continued. It was a very strong snowstorm with a storm wind on April 29. And it was very cold. But we began our march from BC (5000 m) to ABC (5600 m). Our decision, certainly, was not very reasonable, but neither we, nor Dutch members wanted to do an additional payment for yaks. The Chinese liaison officer offered to wait with our march, but required to pay for the "idle time" of yaks - 11 US dollars for a yak for each additional day. We had about 45 yaks and the total amount was high enough. And according to our programme we decided to go upwards.

The weather was awful, practically without any visibility, but our yak teamsters quickly went upwards - they, maybe, wanted to reach ABC in one day. And our members began to lose their way in such terrible blizzard. With great difficulties we stopped our yak caravan and stayed for a night stop. As a result Werner, Trudy and two other Dutch members were lost in the blizzard. Also, two our kitchen-boys and two Dutch Sherpas disappeared somewhere. Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin and Vladimir Belous went to look for our members and brought them to the camp. Our kitchen-boys and Sherpas could not find a way in the blizzard, came down to BC and then came to ABC themselves. But one Sherpa was frostbitten.

We were unable to dine in the intermediate camp - all our things and food were covered by snow very quickly. And our cook was not in power to prepare meals for us. So, we used our thermoses and just had a snack.

On May 30 we had a sunny day but with strong wind. It took 3 hours for us to reach ABC from our night stop. There are about 8 expeditions here. We had a short rest after our hard walk and pitched our camp.

Today on May 1 we have continued our "camp" works. The weather is good enough and general state of our expedition members is satisfactory: our Russian members feel themselves a little better, our Dutch members - a little worse. I think that our cook feels himself not very well - he vomited straight in the tent. Moskalev is busy with his satellite phone and computer - he is trying to adjust e-mail. In general, all is OK and usual mountaineering workdays have been started.
with yaks from BC to ABC

April 28, Marina Ershova:
Dmitry Moskalev has turned on his satellite telephone and this call is by the satellite phone. On April 25 we continued the acclimatization near Nyalam and on April 26 six Russian members were transported to the Chinese Base Camp on 5000 m. This place is named as BC very conditionally - expeditions don't stop here for a long time. Simply, the Chinese liaison officer is here and trucks with expedition members and cargoes arrive here too. This place is just a transfer point and from here with yaks we will go to юбя (Advanced Base Camp) on 5600 m. And there we will live, continue our acclimatization and from ABC we will try to climb Shisha Pangma. Chinese бя is located in a broad valley with a river. You can see Shisha Pangma and surrounding mountains from here. And Shisha Pangma looks steep enough from here.

Now about our adventures. On April 26, when we arrived in бя, the awful storm was begun - with a terrible wind and a very strong snowfall. Very soon all was covered by snow of 20 cm. It was very difficult to install a big dining-tent and tents for the members. It was very cold and disgusting. But our cook prepared very tasty meals and we were happy.

Our Dutch members that were in Nyalam had a lot of problems on April 26. The storm caught them during the acclimatization walk. And in the conditions of hurricane and practically zero visibility they were lost. Two Dutch members were forced to use a GPS receiver for returning in Nyalam, the rest came later.

Yesterday, on April 27 the Dutch members arrived at BC from Nyalam and Moskalev with Soyfer - from Lhasa. Now we are all together and we plan to go to ABC tomorrow. Today we continue our acclimatization near Chinese бя.

April 24, Marina Ershova:
Today we got up at 8:00, had breakfast at 9:00 and about 10:00 we went for a walk for acclimatization. We hiked and climbed local hills until 15:00 - the Dutch members were on 3800 - 3900 m, Bobok and Oleynik reached the altitude about 5000 m, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir Belous, Sergey Bogomolov and me summited a small local mountain about 4100 - 4200 m with a lot of varicoloured small flags

Our mood and general state are good, the weather is good too - with the sun and without rain. But the air is cool enough and not very strong wind is blowing. Probably that tomorrow we will continue our acclimatization walks and then we will drive to BC.
local countryman

April 23, Marina Ershova:
We are in Nyalam (3750 m) now and all is OK. Today we have drived out of Zangmu at 10:00 and along steep valley with several serpentines reached Nyalam for 2.5 hours. This time we have no Chinese jeeps and all our members have been carried by bus.

Usual Tibetan "charmings" began - they accommodated us in the single hotel with a toilet through the road (with the door on a nail) and gave us hot-water thermoses - drink tea if you want or take shower if you want. But meals are good enough, probably, better than in the last expedition.

The terrain around us looks as a hilly and stony desert, practically without verdure. It is warm enough but all our members are in jackets and warm trousers. Only Bobok and Oleynik all time go in shorts, but they have arrived in Nepal a week earlier and already are quite well acclimatized.

Our and Dutch members behave wholly sensibly and have no extremism to start the climb without good acclimatization. I think we will spend here a couple of days for acclimatization and then will drive to BC.
Oleg Nasedkin with Tibetan puppies

April 22, Marina Ershova:
Today after very early breakfast at 04:00 in the morning we left Kathmandu and started our trip to the Tibet border. All our documents were in order and we crossed the Nepal-China border without any problems. About 12:00 we were on the Chinese territory. Our hotel is in the small town of Zangmu on the altitude about 2300 m but really nothing to do here and we are waiting for the drive to Nyalam tomorrow morning.

Moskalev and Soyfer are in Kathmandu now and they will fly to Lhasa tomorrow. Our Nepalese cook and two kitchen-boys are travelling with us. The weather is good enough but sometimes it rains in the evenings.
town of Zangmu on 2300 m

April 21, Marina Ershova:
Yesterday we arrived in Kathmandu. As usual, affable faces of local people, dirt and smog met us in the capital of Nepal. We were accommodated at the Royal Singi Hotel and after that we started our excursions and shopping. We bought rope for possible fixed roping and several snow anchors.

Today we have visited the office of Asian Trekking and solved all necessary questions, checked our equipment and food. A solar panel looks not very good and Asian Trekking has given us an electrical generator in addition. It seems that all is ready and tomorrow we will drive to Tibet. To have no possible problems with traditional spring demonstrations in Kathmandu we decided to start very early - at 05:00.

Our Dutch members look as very nice and pleasant people. Two our members, Moskalev and Soyfer, have a plan to visit Lhasa and its monasteries. They will fly to Lhasa on April 23 and will join us at BC on April 27.
Marina Ershova in Kathmandu Kathmandu

April 19, Andrey Ershov:
The expedition is ready and today Marina Ershova, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir Belous, Dmitry Moskalev, Yury Soyfer and Sergey Bogomolov have flown from Moscow to Kathmandu via Delhi. Viktor Bobok and Vladimir Oleynik is already in Kathmandu, they have arrived there one week earlier. Six Dutch members have started their travel today too.
Sheremetyevo Airport in Moscow: Yury Soyfer, Dmitry Moskalev and Marina Ershova Sheremetyevo Airport in Moscow: Sergey Bogomolov, Yury Soyfer and Marina Ershova

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